Unveiling the Essence:
A Journey into Perfumery Formulas
Curated by Urs Staheli and Saskia Wilson-Brown
On view: May 3 – June 13, 2025
Curator talk: Sunday May 25, 4-6pm
Open hours: TBA
The Institute for Art and Olfaction is honored to welcome an exhibition exploring the perfume formula. Co-curated by professor Urs Stäheli and IAO founder Saskia Wilson-Brown, this exhibition aims to showcase perfume formulas as cultural and aesthetic artifacts, presenting them in their entirety—from initial drafts to final compositions—to highlight the complex artistry inherent in these meticulously crafted lists of ingredients, and their various organizational structures.
About
In the realm of perfumery, formulas stand as the indispensable blueprints for crafting scents that captivate the senses. With the introduction of synthetic molecules, the ambiguous recipes of old have given way to precise formulas, meticulously detailing the exact proportions of each aromatic component. Despite their pivotal role in scent creation, formulas often occupy a paradoxical position, simultaneously overlooked and concealed. These seemingly simple inventories, reminiscent of bureaucratic tools, can obscure the artistic marvel of a completed fragrance. Moreover, they remain shrouded, for a formula holds the key to scent replication, inadvertently opening the door to imitation. Although this enigma may appear obsolete in the current landscape of scent analysis facilitated by techniques like gas chromatography, the fragrance industry, particularly the mainstream sector, clings to this secrecy, fearing consumer reactions upon discovering the synthetic nature of perfumes (Ch. Burr).
The forthcoming exhibition seeks to elevate the formula itself into a cultural and aesthetic artifact. It delves into the everyday life of formulas and the nuanced aesthetic experiences—both gratifying and discomforting—that they evoke. Essentially, a formula functions as a meticulous list, collecting, arranging, and quantifying ingredients. While diverse artistic disciplines have embraced the aesthetic value of lists, from visual art to literature, the world of perfumery has yet to fully recognize the allure of its core list. In contrast, our exhibition endeavors to present formulas in their entirety, encompassing initial drafts and preliminary sketches, framing them as enchanting creations in their own right.
Our intention is to assemble a diverse collection of formulas, whether they are transcribed on paper, complete with potential annotations, or captured within painstakingly organized spreadsheets. As formulas take shape in various structures—alphabetically ordered, modules, sub-formulas, and olfactory pyramids—we strive to illuminate the craftsmanship inherent in their arrangement, highlighting the aesthetic pleasure entwined within this process.
The Politics of Visibility
The aspiration to render formulas visible encapsulates an inherently political endeavor. In the wake of contemporary dialogues on transparency, epitomized by the ‘Perfumery Code of Ethics,’ the societal, legal, and political implications of safeguarding scent ingredients as secrets come to the forefront. This exhibition seeks to unravel the core of this secrecy inherent to perfumery. What visual imprints does this concealed knowledge leave behind? How do formulas find sanctuary? What aesthetics emerge from the pursuit of transparency, from attempting to unveil the enigma encapsulated by each formula?
“Unveiling the Essence: A Journey into Perfumery Formulas” invites perfumers, collectors, enthusiasts, and the greater public to embark on an exploration of the unseen. By revealing the intricate world of formulas, we hope to inspire new perspectives on the artistry of perfumery, while fostering an understanding of the delicate balance between concealment and revelation that defines this realm.
Participants
To be announced
Curators
Urs Stäheli, Professor of Sociological Theory at the University of Hamburg
Saskia Wilson-Brown, Executive Director at the Institute for Art and Olfaction
About IAO Gallery
IAO Gallery plays host to visual art, performative, and installation-based exhibitions from artists working at the intersection of scent and art. We welcome artists from around the world in collaborative exhibitions that showcase visual art, performance, installation and – of course – scents.
932 Chung King Road
Los Angeles CA. 90012
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IAO Gallery is accessible by wheelchair. However, please note that where is a one inch cement lip at the entry to the IAO.